Sunday, 30 November 2008

Perth Gastronome

Cottesloe Beach

So, Perth was totally awesome. I went there for Melbourne Cup Weekend with Schatzi and her hubby M. They used to live there for several years, so it was great being shown around!

Fremantle town hallBoxing roo

Most of our stay was spent down in Fremantle. We stayed with their friend F, who lives in a supercool apartment in a stylishly revamped industrial building in Freo.

F's apartment building

Early on the Saturday morning we walked around the corner to Gino's, a Fremantle institution for over twenty years. F's mates were all there - they meet every week and call themselves the Saturday Morning Losers' Club. We were honorary members that week... :)


I had the Prosciutto Eggs: poached eggs with prosciutto, spinach, roast capsicum, semi-dried tomato and shaved parmesan. They weren't particularly special, but were decent enough.

Gino'sProsciutto Eggs

M however struck gold with the Bircher muesli, smothered in juicy fruit and drizzled with honey. Even I, who as a rule never orders muesli, was impressed!


Schatzi and I went wandering around Fremantle, poking our noses into the Freo Market and various shops. My favourite was Kakulas Sisters (29-31 Market Street), sister foodie store to Kakulas Brothers in Northbridge. According to Sami's Kitchen, the story goes that the sisters in the family were not allowed to work in the Kakulas Brothers store, so they set up their own store instead.

Kakula Sisters

I fell in love with these cute tea towels, wish I'd bought one. They're made by Fatty DeMonsey and can be bought online.

Kakula Sisters

Lots of the produce in the store is laid out in great big self-serve sacks. some of the varieties of flour on offer were plain, self-raising, rye, stoneground wholemeal and atta!

Kakula SistersKakula Sisters

On the Sunday morning we went for a swim at Cottesloe Beach. It was bloody cold, but we swam around the Cott Beach Pylon, the heritage-listed last remaining element of what was to be a shark proof enclosure in the late 1920s.

Cottesloe Beach

Scenes from an Aussie beach.

Cottesloe Beach

After our swim we went into town and snacked on sushi at Jaws Kaiten Sushi in the Hay Street Mall. Jaws was the first sushi train cafe in Perth.

Jaws sushi

Jaws has special significance for Schatzi and M, because years ago they had platters of their sushi at their wedding brunch. :)

Jaws sushi
Jaws sushiJaws sushi
Jaws sushiJaws sushi

We spent the afternoon checking out the Northbridge Festival and then at sunset it was back to Cottesloe for fish and chips on the beach.

Fish and chips

The fish and chips were from Cott's Takeaway. With my food I had an icky Vanilla Malt Supa Shake which really did get thicker the more it was shaken. It tasted a bit like sweetened condensed milk, and gave me a headache.


Love watching the sun set into the Indian Ocean!

Cottesloe Beach

F's apartment is just a short stroll from the Little Creatures Brewery, so we checked it out during the day and at night.

Little Creatures breweryLittle Creatures

The "cellar door" bar and restaurant is open from morning until midnight seven days a week. It's much more cosy and chilled out the beer hall they've set up in Fitzroy - but then again, almost all of Perth is more cosy and chilled out than Melbourne!

Little Creatures breweryLittle Creatures brewery

After our fish and chips, Schatzi, M and I went to Little Creatures with B for a tasty dessert of sticky date pud and beer.

Sticky date pudLittle Creatures brewery

One morning M and I wanted to explore a museum. Instead of the swanky new Maritime Museum, we went to the smaller Maritime Museum Shipwreck Galleries. I highly recommend this gorgeous maritime archeology museum, dedicated to the many ships wrecked on the Western Australian coast (some as early as the 17th century).

I was most impressed with the reconstructed section of the Dutch East India Company ship Batavia, and was charmed by the older man and woman dressed as pirates taking young schoolchildren on piratey tours of the museum ("Arrr, which of ye can tell me what this is?" "A CANNON!" "That's right. And who fired the cannon?" "PIRATES!!"). So cute!! :)

BataviaOld Maritime Museum

On the Sunday, Monday and Tuesday we went to Moore & Moore, my favourite Perth discovery.

Moore & MooreMoore & Moore

Moore & Moore
46 Henry Street, Fremantle (map)
(08) 9335 3519
Open daily 8am-4pm

The cafe and the Moores Building Contemporary Art Gallery are both housed in the stunning heritage-listed Moores Building (whose website rather hilariously promises that it is a "Hidden Gem", "Rare and Unusual", "Something Wild", "Something Different", "Very Freo" and "a little bit of Culture").

Moore & Moore

The cafe was hip and the young staff were all very friendly. On Sunday mornings turntables are set up from 10am to 1pm and patrons are invited to "bring down your favourite record and be treated to a free coffee whilst listening to your tune mixed into the morning's music". Anyone know anywhere here in Melbourne that has such an offer?

Rather than being handed a table number, we were handed a table letter - C for cat. :)

Moore & Moore

But of course it wasn't just the look and feel of the place that I loved. The coffee was excellent and we had some really great food there: poached eggs with (awesome) creamy nutmeg spinach, served on toasted Turkish bread and topped with a rocket and parmesan salad ($13.50), Jess' toasted hazelnut muesli with yoghurt and strawberries ($9) and - quite possibly my favourite - a heavenly lightly toasted lemon curd muffin ($3.50).

Well worth a look if you're in Freo!

Poached eggs on creamy nutmeg spinach
Jess' Toasted Hazelnut MuesliLemon curd muffin

On Melbourne Cup Day I caught up with Igg, a dear friend from my wine-making days, and had lunch at the rather chic 44 King Street - home of hundreds of wines and lots of fancy (and expensive!) foodstuffs.

44 King Street
44 King Street, Perth (map)
(08) 9321 4476

44 King Street

I had a bloody good open fillet steak, bacon and egg sandwich with beetroot horseradish cream ($22.90), and nibbled afterwards on a tangy passionfruit cupcake.

Steak sandwichPassionfruit cupcake

I loved this dingo logo in North Fremantle. The sign on the Dingo Flour Mill was painted in 1940 and then a few decades later was touched up by a young sign-writer by the name of Alan Bond!

Dingo Flour

On our last day we walked through Kings Park, including walking along the Treetop Walk. Cameras are permitted, but wedding photos are strictly forbidden on the walkway!

Kings ParkTreetop walk

I am crazy in love with Kangaroo Paw!

Kangaroo PawsKangaroo Paws
Kangaroo pawKangaroo Paws
Kangaroo paw

Alas I didn't have the chance to check out any of the restaurants my kind readers had recommended for me (I'm especially sorry I didn't get to try Namh Thai, Ben)... but I had a fantastic time nonetheless!


bunchesmcginty said...

All my friends are from Perth and they say there is very good eating there, if it is open.

I now know what they mean.

Anonymous said...

Claire, I'll attempt to temper your sorrow by saying two things. Firstly, it sounded like you had a pretty fair old time anyway. Secondly, Longrain does what Namh Thai does, just a bit better.

And seeing those flavoured milks took me back - Perth is the only place I know that does spearmint milk, and I'm fairly certain it's God's own junk beverage.

Anonymous said...

Love love love this post.
I live in Perth and you hit the nail on the head with some of the best things to do and see.
We visit Moore and Moore every weekend for a long leisurely brekky.
Now I'll have to start checking out your tips for next time i am in melbourne!

claire said...

Ange, I'm thrilled that a Perth native approves of my Perth post! You've made me very happy. :)

fatty demonsey said...

Hey, I'm that Fatty DeMonsey chic. You mentioned you wished you'd bought one of my tea towels from Kakulas Sister when you were in Fremantle, well I would love to send you one with complements for having such lovely pictures of them on your site. Just email me via my website with a suitable address and one will be on its way to you in a flash.

Anonymous said...

thanks too, from a recent melbourne visitor to perth.

i took your tip on papa gino's, and ordered that bircher muesli - like, wow. that's the way i've always dreamt it should be. the coffee was pretty fine too, and it's a lovely place to hang.

i did make namh thai too, and cannot recommend it highly enough. it will be my first priority next time i get back.

Matt C said...

Claire! I just discovered this post!
Nice work in going to Perth and not just whining about the shops' opening hours, weird liquor licensing laws, etc. Looks like you had a good time. I've never been to most of these places, mostly because I rarely left the Leederville-North Perth-Mt Lawley-Highgate axis of awesome. I didn't often venture south of the river (there be monsters, and Dockers fans).

Anyway... nice work!

claire said...

Glad you approve, Matt! I loved Perth, and would love to revisit. When I do I shall of course ask you and Matt OD to tell me EVERYTHING about where to go... :)