Two taste sensations I feel compelled to share with you

Exhibit A is a Ruby Blood Navel, a hybrid piece of fruit that combines ruby grapefruit, blood orange and navel orange in a delicious, bitter/sweet, citrusy ménage à trois. It looks gorgeous, the juicy orange flesh taking on a very faint purple hue, and it tastes... amazing.


Cam at Damian Pike's figured I might like it so he sold me one last Saturday. I went back this Saturday and bought four more. I intend to go back next Saturday to buy several more. They're only going to be in season for a few weeks, so hurry on down if you're keen (and tell 'em Claire sent you)... :)


Exhibit B is the chocolate spiced pudding ($15) at Portello Rosso. Went to Portello Rosso on Friday with Miss T for lunch pizze (I can recommend the pizza called The Shizzle: pear, jamón, blue-veined queso de valdeón and roquette), and on a whim we decided to share the chocolate pudding.


For the first six or so seconds after eating a mouthful it was just lovely hot gooey saucy chocolate pudding, and then OH MY GOD THE SPICES: cinnamon, sweet paprika, cayenne pepper and a hint of smoked paprika. Extraordinarily good.

Gippsland Gastronome (Day 2)

Sponsored by Nuffnang


This is the second of three posts writing up highlights from the weekend away that C and I had in West Gippsland, as guests of Destination Gippsland (Day 1 can be found here).


We woke up in Gracefield Cottage at Neerim South (pictured above) and helped ourselves to the breakfast that had been laid out for us in the little kitchen. Before driving off for the day, we couldn't resist going over to say hello to the goats. :)


We stopped off in the nearby town of Warragul to get C a coffee. We found The Bean Scene, a coffee studio that boasted a range of coffee blends. Instead, I elected to try the Horchatta, a tasty hot drink spiced with cinnamon and vanilla.


Brandy Creek Wines & View Cafe
570 Buln Buln Road, Drouin East (map)
(03) 5625 4498
www.brandycreekwines.com.au

For lunch, we went to the View Cafe at Brandy Creek Wines, where a tapas menu and a magnificent view over the valley awaited us. Highlights of the meal were the beetroot and pomegranate dip ($7.50), topped with pink peppercorns that give it a little kick, and the roast pork belly ($9.50) which was baked with fennel seed and rosemary, and served with quince. Great combination of flavours. Mmmmm, quince.


We washed down the seared chorizo ($11) with a couple of glasses of the winery's wines. C preferred the Pinot Noir, I preferred the Tempranillo.


The gorgeous view from the cafe.


It was mid-afternoon before we left the winery and starting driving up to Mount Baw Baw, the temperature of the fresh mountain air steadily dropping as we drove higher. It was our intention to drive as far as we could up the mountain, but by the time we reached the entrance to the Alpine Park it was late afternoon, we were low on petrol and we weren't allowed any further up the mountain without chains on the wheels (which we didn't have, clueless city folk that we are). I was really keen to visit the Noojee Trestle Bridge before the dusk, so we decided to just stop briefly in the tiny mountain village of Tanjil Bren (population 110!) to admire the scenery for a short while before heading back down the mountain.


Loved the public phone powered by solar panels, and the Tanjil Bren snowman. My it was cold up there!


On Mount Baw Baw, admiring the trees and the late afternoon sunlight.


The Noojee Trestle Bridge, located a few kilometres outside of Noojee, was one of seven trestle bridges on the Noojee-Nayook railway line. All the other bridges were destroyed by fires, and a train last crossed the bridge over 50 years ago.


I'm really glad there was still enough daylight - the bridge was my favourite sight that we saw over the course of the weekend. Every year, the Gippsland Gourmet Country Tourism Association hosts the local chapter of the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival's World's Longest Lunch ON THE BRIDGE ITSELF - for someone scared of heights like me it sounds equal parts thrilling and terrifying.


With a tank full of petrol we drove back to the Outpost Retreat, only this time instead of eating in the Toolshed Bar we were in the Outpost Restaurant (situated in the original farmhouse on the property).


The Outpost Retreat (The Outpost Restaurant)
38 Loch Valley Road, Noojee (map)
(03) 5628 9669
www.theoutpostretreat.com

The Outpost Restaurant is run by John and Barb Snelling. Barb runs front-of-house and John, previously head chef at Café Di Stasio, mans the kitchen. The only restaurant in West Gippsland to have an AGFG Chef's Hat, the Outpost showcases a Mod Oz menu with a strong focus on local ingredients - about 90% of the menu ingredients being sourced locally.


A plate of Hope Farm sourdough bread (from Yarragon), served with Tarago olives and olive oil (from Jindivick), was much appreciated. For entree C ordered the prawn cutlets ($20), which were panfried in garlic, white wine and cream and served with a wild lime infused rice. C enjoyed it, but I wasn't sold - I didn't think the prawns and the sauce were a good match. Not a dish I would have chosen.


By contrast I totally loved my entree of crumbed bocconcini ($18), which had been crumbed in fresh breadcrumbs and fried, then served with a fresh napoli sauce and Blackwood Farm basil. The napoli sauce had a lovely bite to it, which combined with the peppery olive oil and fried cheesy goodness was just delightful.


C's main course was a knockout: pumpkin gnocchi made in-house and served with Tarago goats cheese, sage and a burnt butter sauce ($18/$32, from the specials list). The velvety softness of the gnocchi and the goats cheese was particularly memorable. Our mains were accompanied by a bottle of the excellent Kouark 2005 Pinot Noir.


I'd nearly ordered the pork and fennel sausages for entree, so when I saw that the quails included pork sausage I ordered them for my main. The Brandy Creek quails were stuffed with pork sausage and Fumina Farm chestnuts, then roasted and served on a bed of mushroom and pearl barley risotto ($38). A perfect winter dish: the stuffing was rich, the quail had a nicely crisp skin, and the pearl barley gave the risotto a great texture. I love the way the crossed legs of the quails made them look like a pair of friendly, inquisitive snails. :)


We decided we only had room to share a dessert. The dessert menu was rather interesting, in that many of the European dishes such as tiramisu, crêpes and frangipane tart featured several indigenous ingredients (eg strawberry gum, wattle seed, quandong etc).

We shared the Jindie Brie and strawberry gum pannacotta ($16). It was served with a very light, very fine caramel sauce, a generous dollop of mascarpone and a sprinkle of crystalline praline powder. The strawberry gum gave the dessert a faint eucalyptus-like flavour, which nicely offset the richness of the brie and mascarpone.


Melbourne Gastronome visited West Gippsland as a guest, with transport paid for by Destination Gippsland and complimentary accommodation provided by Gracefield Cottage. All food and beverages paid for by Melbourne Gastronome, except for complimentary dinner at The Outpost Restaurant (and toast and coffee provided at the B&B!).

Gippsland Gastronome (Day 1)

Sponsored by Nuffnang


A few months ago, I was invited by Destination Gippsland to take a winter weekend trip down to West Gippsland as their guest to explore the region. Last weekend was Gippsland weekend! I went down with my friend C and we had fun driving hither and yon, checking out the towns, countryside, restaurants and vineyards. This is the first of three posts writing up highlights from the weekend. After the third post I'll be putting up details about the blog prize giveaway - that's right, there's going to be a fabulous prize up for grabs for one lucky Melbourne Gastronome reader! It's the first time I've done anything like this on the blog, so it's all very exciting for me. More details soon...


I'm afraid Day 1 is a somewhat abbreviated post because neither C nor I was able to leave work early on the Friday. We did manage however to get out of Melbourne and up to Noojee in time for dinner at the Toolshed, which is part of The Outpost Retreat.

The Outpost Retreat (The Toolshed Bar)
38 Loch Valley Road, Noojee (map)
(03) 5628 9669
www.theoutpostretreat.com


Formerly both a tool shed and a chook shed for the property's main farmhouse (which is now the Outpost Restaurant - see tomorrow's entry!), the Toolshed is a popular watering hole. It was getting pretty damn cold by the time we arrived, so we were glad of the crackling fireplace and the cosy/rustic/casual country atmosphere.


True to its name, the Toolshed had all sorts of old tools affixed to the walls, along with sepia photographs of West Gippsland in the olden days. I feel slightly sick with worry just looking at that photo of the MASSIVELY HEAVY STEAMTRAIN driving over that spindly wooden bridge!


The food on offer at the Toolshed is good honest pub grub: I had the McBilly Burger and chips ($12) and C had the (very cheesy!) Chicken Parma ($19), washed down with a couple of pots of beer. Great chips, and hugely filling meals.


After dinner we drove off into the night, trying to find the B&B where we were staying. After a few comical wrong turns (silly cityfolk, trying to rely on iPhone Google Maps for directions!), we arrived at Gracefield Cottage where our lovely hostess June had already prepared a roaring wood heater to warm the cottage in anticipation of our arrival. Not sure whether it was the bed or the lungfuls of fresh country air, but I slept better than I had in weeks.


Melbourne Gastronome visited West Gippsland as a guest, with accommodation and transport paid for by Destination Gippsland. All food and beverages in this post paid for by Melbourne Gastronome. :)

Brunch in Melbourne's whitest suburb

Mitte
76 Michael Street, Fitzroy North (map)
9077 7379



One of my first outings in Melbourne after I got back from overseas was brunch with nine months pregnant Schatzi and friends at Mitte. Named after the Berlin suburb, Mitte is in hipsterville North Fitzroy (Melbourne's "whitest" suburb, according to Stuff White People Like author Michael Lallo), in a quiet residential street near Edinburgh Gardens. The former corner shop has been fitted out simply and beautifully, with white walls and big windows facing east and west.


For brunch, D ordered the bircher style muesli, made with apple juice, yoghurt and nuts and topped with fruit salad ($11.50). Looked good, especially the vivid fruit.


J had the Croque Monsieur with Dijon mustard, béchamel, gypsy ham and St Claire Swiss cheese ($12.50). I had a taste and it was nicely creamy - like the fact that it was proper Dijon too.


Schatzi ordered the three cheese omelette ($15): Meredith marinated goats fetta, Grana Padano and buffalo mozzarella served with sourdough toast and topped with a salad of green olives, cherry tomatoes, rocket and parmesan. Supercheesy - as Schatz went into labour later that evening, I can't help but wonder whether or not this omelette was partly responsible... :)


At a house party the night before, I'd been discussing North Fitzroy with my charming (and very drunk) friend J. When I'd told him I was planning on going to Mitte for brunch, he'd clapped his hand on my shoulder and slurred that I HAD to try the Mitte chickpea bake (reviewed by Michael here). "Uh huh", I'd mumbled.

But alas I don't care much for chickpeas, so I decided to try something else that caught my eye (sorry J!). I had the free range poached eggs Caesar style ($15) which were served with sourdough toast shmeared with garlic aioli, crispy bacon, cos lettuce, shaved parmesan and anchovies. The aioli and anchovies made it a pretty hardcore dish as far as brunches go, but it was really delicious - just what my hangover needed. Dench's sourdough is the best.


While I'm not sure that I'd go so far as to award it Breakfast of the Year (as the 2009 Cheap Eats Guide did), we were still pretty impressed with Mitte. The vanilla cupcakes looked so good that when we ordered a second round of coffees after our plates were cleared, we decided to also order a cupcake and to split it four ways. Soft and fluffy!

San Francisco Gastronome

After 15 amazing, action-packed days in New York, I had five days in San Francisco to decompress and relax prior to heading home. I parted ways with best-friend-K at LAX, and flew up to SFO to stay with my dear dear friend, the very gorgeous Em.

I've stayed with Em in San Francisco three times over the last five years, and with each visit I fall more and more in love with the Bay Area. San Francisco is my kind of town! I'm afraid to say though that I was having such a great time just chilling out with Em that my long list of foodie recommendations went largely unnoticed... but here are a few highlights from my stay.


On my first night in town, Em and friends took me to Nihon Whisky Lounge down on Folsom Street. As well as being a whisky lounge of some renown (the largest single malt collection on the west coast, apparently), NWL doubles as an izakaya. Apparently the must-have here is the tempura shiitake mushrooms stuffed with hamachi - if we'd ordered food I'd've been in like Flynn on that dish.


Instead, we just drank a whole lotta whiskies.


One place I'd been to in the past that I was really keen to head back to was Nick's Crispy Tacos, which is only a block from Em's apartment on Russian Hill. Although they're not as strictly traditional as the tacos you can get down in the Mission District, Nick's Baja-style fish tacos are just sensational.


Nick's Crispy Tacos shares the same space as Rouge nightclub, which can make for a slightly surreal Mexican dining experience!


Far, far less glamorous in terms of decor but more authentic in terms of cuisine is Pancho Villa, a taqueria in the heart of the Mission. We headed down to the Mission one sunny afternoon with Em's friend D and wandered around, getting a decent coffee and listening to live music at The Revolution Cafe then checking out a couple of bookstores before going to Pancho Villa for a burrito.


Pancho Villa burritos are cheap and delicious, but extremely unphotogenic. So here are some shots of Em and D and Pacifico beer instead.


Love how colourful the Mission is! More photos of Mission murals (from my last trip to SF) can be seen here.


After Em had read me twittering lyrical a few months ago about the salted caramel at Cutler & Co, she had promised to take me to Bi Rite Creamery when I came to San Francisco, so that I could try their amazing salted caramel ice cream. After Pancho Villa the three of us walked a circuitous route to Bi Rite Creamery, trying to walk off enough of the burrito so that we'd have room for ice cream. Such is the popularity of the ice cream here that there was at least a ten minute queue out the door.


Of course I was determined to try the salted caramel, but it took me ages to choose my other flavour. I mean: roasted banana... balsamic strawberry... crème fraîche... pineapple raspberry sorbet... chocolate coconut... brown sugar with ginger caramel swirl... they all sounded amazing. In the end I chose the most unusual-sounding of the lot, honey lavender. Definitely unlike any ice cream I'd had before, though in retrospect I probably should have chosen a different one. But oh how I loved the salted caramel!


I also really love San Francisco's Chinatown. Did you know it's the biggest Chinatown outside of Asia and the oldest in North America? It's just down the hill from Em's place, so we walked through it on the 4th of July after exploring some sunny pockets of North Beach.


We were about to walk back up to Russian Hill when Em suddenly grabbed by arm: "Oh my god, you HAVE to try the daan tat at Golden Gate Bakery. They're the best!". Em was quite clearly not the only one who thought so, as there was a HUGE queue (probably somewhat exacerbated by people buying up big batches to take to Independence Day barbeques, but still) with a velvet rope keeping part of the sidewalk clear for pedestrians as the queue snaked down the street and then double-backed upon itself. I took the photo below as we were standing in line: everyone else you can see in the photo was also in the queue!


It ended up being a 30 minute wait but OMFG SO WORTH IT. Hands down the best egg custard tarts I have ever consumed. The buttery pastry was wondrously flaky and the filling was so fresh and warm and silky, it felt practically illicit. Because the turnover for egg custard tarts at GGB is so high, they're always fresh straight out of the oven. LOVE!


Later that night Em and I went to see the 1939 camp-bitchy classic The Women at the Castro Theatre. We had a fabulous time: the lively, mostly gay audience laughed at and applauded every especially catty one-liner, and hissed every time Joan Crawford (playing The Other Woman) was onscreen. :)


It was like being at my beloved Astor, only on a slightly grander scale. Oh, and there was a real live organist playing old tunes before the movie on a Wurlitzer organ, which was slowly lowered underground as the movie was about to begin. He got a big round of applause!


It was only on my last day in San Francisco that I went down to the Ferry Building. Unfortunately I didn't have time to visit it on a day the Farmers Market is held, but I still had a lovely time checking out the permanent shops. It's a foodie paradise, but it ain't cheap.


Stunning organic heirloom tomatoes.


An amazing range of mushrooms at Far West Fungi. I'd never even heard of some of the varieties! I really wish I hadn't been booked on a flight home that evening - would have loved to buy some to cook up with Em.


I especially liked the look of the maitake mushrooms. A few doors down, at the Boccalone Salumeria, they were selling little cones of mixed salumi (or, as the sign above the door said, "tasty salted pig parts") for a few dollars. Great idea!


Oh, and I almost died when I walked into Culinaire, an antique shop specialising in food and wine-related antiques from nineteenth century France, England and America. Gorgeous.



For lunch, I treated myself to a meal at Slanted Door, Charles Phan's modern Vietnamese restaurant that came highly recommended. Loved the view out over the water and the Bay Bridge.

The Slanted Door
1 Ferry Building #3, San Francisco (map)
415 861 8032


My waiter was extremely helpful, suggesting I try a few half dishes so that I could sample a range of dishes from the menu. I started with a half serve of exquisite Kona kampachi with English cucumber, mint and Thai chillies ($15 regular serve, $7.50 half serve).


This was followed by a half serve of the Slanted Door rolls with shrimp, pork, mint and peanut sauce ($9 regular serve, $4.50 half serve). I must confess to not being much of a fan of rice paper rolls, but this one was a cut above the usual, with proper fresh prawn.


For my main course I ordered the caramelised catfish with coriander, ginger and Thai chillies ($15). Looove catfish! It was quite spicy and nicely sticky. I accompanied it with a half serve of vegetables - given I'd been ogling the maitake mushrooms only half an hour ago, I couldn't go past them combined with Chue Farm sugar snap peas ($10 regular serve, $5 half serve). They had a rich, woodsy flavour which went beautifully with the sweetness of the snap peas.


After lunch I bought Em a Mad Men DVD then jumped on a cable car to head back up to her place, so that I could get my suitcase and get a cab to the airport.

San Francisco, I miss you!