Margherita pizza taste test at Queen Margaret

Queen Margaret
356 Queens Parade, Fitzroy North/Clifton Hill (map)
9482 5988
Tuesday-Sunday, 5:30-Late


Not to go all Austen on you, but is a truth universally acknowledged that the margherita pizza is the yardstick by which one can judge the skill of a pizzaiolo. When I heard that new pizzeria Queen Margaret in Clifton Hill village was serving not one but THREE kinds of margherita pizza, I knew I'd have to visit with housemate J (who is both vegetarian and a margherita connoisseur).

Queen Margaret is the new venture from Robert (Cavallini) Coco. The restaurant fitout is stylish, with dark timber panels along one wall and exposed pipes and light bulbs. The walls leading to the toilets boldly spell out the origin story of pizza and the role in that story played by Queen Margherita of Savoy, first Queen of Italy post-unification.

When we got there, J decreed that in order to properly review the margherita pizzas, we'd have to try all of them. As no half/half pizzas are allowed, we explained to our bemused waitress that yes, we'd like three pizzas for two people please (for the record, we shared the QM II, then had half of the QM I and the QM III, leaving us with the equivalent of one pizza to take home for leftovers). We also polished off a very decent bottle of Rioja.


All three of the QM margherita pizzas are made with tomato and basil, of course, but the cheeses for each one differ. First of all, a word about the common ingredients: the tomato was just shy of jammy with the right touch of acidity, and the pizza base was chewy and a little bready (a bit thicker than at Ladro or Supermaxi) without being doughy. A little longer in the oven would've amped up the char factor a notch or two, but the base had a depth of flavour that I really liked (the dough is fermented for at least 24 hours).

The first of the three pizzas, the QM I, was $15 and made with fior di latte. J and I agreed that the fior di latte had an unexpected bite to it that we'd more commonly associate with a blue cheese. So far, so good.


The QM II was $19 and made with mozzarella di bufala. Ding ding ding ding we have a winner! In my opinion, it's ALWAYS worth paying the few extra bucks for buffalo mozzarella, cos it's so damn buttery.


The QM III was $16 and made with mozzarella AND parmigiano. Probably our least favourite of the three, as I'm not convinced the nuttiness of parmesan belongs on a margherita, but it was still pretty great.


The pizza menu includes more complex flavour combinations (see Joyce's review for some other options), with idiosyncratic names like 'Sock it to me', 'My only crush', 'Yeah... whatever!', 'Sally... where are the kids?' and 'The end of the affair'. Gluten free pizzas are available for $2 extra. If pizza is not your thing, there's lasagne al forno ($18) and spinach and ricotta agnolotti ($18), plus several small plates.


We're spoiled for choice when it comes to great pizzerias in this hood, but I'll definitely be back.

North Fitzroy's Supermaxi worth the taxi fare

It was on this stretch of Nicholson Street, North Carlton, where I twisted my ankle on Saturday night.


But it would've taken more than a badly twisted ankle to keep me from checking out Supermaxi on Sunday night! Besides, I was suffering cabin fever from being housebound. J chivalrously phoned me from the restaurant when I was en route in a taxi and asked if I needed a shoulder to lean on, but I managed to limp in under my own steam. :)



Supermaxi
305 St Georges Road, North Fitzroy (map)
9482 2828

So, the name. It turns out Supermaxi is many things: the name of a chain of Spanish supermarkets, a type of NZ racing yacht and a series of late 1980s compilation albums featuring Kool & The Gang, Yello and Wang Chung. Owners Rita Macali and Giovanni Patane told Espresso that the name is intentionally un-Italian, a portmanteau word made up of English superlatives Italians like to use. Fair enough. But me, I can't help thinking of products like these when I hear the name. At least it's memorable!


The atmosphere is bustling and the interior is all unadorned walls and moody lighting. Upon arrival at Supermaxi, guests are given a serve of lupini to munch on while they peruse the menu. You eat the beans by making a small tear in the skin with your teeth and then popping the seed directly into your mouth. A bit like Italian edamame.


We shared some excellent primi piatti: stuffed olives with fontina ($8) and the Salumi Maxi platter ($15) with prosciutto, pancetta and salame flecked with truffle oil and pepper.


J as forearm and elbow model, posing with his margherita ($15). I ordered the funghi ($19) which in addition to two type of mushroom (field mushrooms and porcini) had two types of cheese (bocconcini and mozzarella). Both very good pizza specimens (Rita used to be a co-owner in and chef at Ladro), with a slight chewiness to the dough that I love. We also polished off an excellent, well priced Chianti Classico DOCG.


Our amiable waitress came back to us three or four times to ask if we wanted to order anything from the dessert menus before us: eventually we just asked for another drink. J ordered Glenlivet (which, rather curiously, came in a wine glass) and I, being my Nonno's granddaughter, ordered a nip of Nonino grappa. All in all a very enjoyable meal!

Brunch in Melbourne's whitest suburb

Mitte
76 Michael Street, Fitzroy North (map)
9077 7379



One of my first outings in Melbourne after I got back from overseas was brunch with nine months pregnant Schatzi and friends at Mitte. Named after the Berlin suburb, Mitte is in hipsterville North Fitzroy (Melbourne's "whitest" suburb, according to Stuff White People Like author Michael Lallo), in a quiet residential street near Edinburgh Gardens. The former corner shop has been fitted out simply and beautifully, with white walls and big windows facing east and west.


For brunch, D ordered the bircher style muesli, made with apple juice, yoghurt and nuts and topped with fruit salad ($11.50). Looked good, especially the vivid fruit.


J had the Croque Monsieur with Dijon mustard, béchamel, gypsy ham and St Claire Swiss cheese ($12.50). I had a taste and it was nicely creamy - like the fact that it was proper Dijon too.


Schatzi ordered the three cheese omelette ($15): Meredith marinated goats fetta, Grana Padano and buffalo mozzarella served with sourdough toast and topped with a salad of green olives, cherry tomatoes, rocket and parmesan. Supercheesy - as Schatz went into labour later that evening, I can't help but wonder whether or not this omelette was partly responsible... :)


At a house party the night before, I'd been discussing North Fitzroy with my charming (and very drunk) friend J. When I'd told him I was planning on going to Mitte for brunch, he'd clapped his hand on my shoulder and slurred that I HAD to try the Mitte chickpea bake (reviewed by Michael here). "Uh huh", I'd mumbled.

But alas I don't care much for chickpeas, so I decided to try something else that caught my eye (sorry J!). I had the free range poached eggs Caesar style ($15) which were served with sourdough toast shmeared with garlic aioli, crispy bacon, cos lettuce, shaved parmesan and anchovies. The aioli and anchovies made it a pretty hardcore dish as far as brunches go, but it was really delicious - just what my hangover needed. Dench's sourdough is the best.


While I'm not sure that I'd go so far as to award it Breakfast of the Year (as the 2009 Cheap Eats Guide did), we were still pretty impressed with Mitte. The vanilla cupcakes looked so good that when we ordered a second round of coffees after our plates were cleared, we decided to also order a cupcake and to split it four ways. Soft and fluffy!