Wednesday, 10 June 2009

Random Day of Asian Food

Random Day of Asian FoodRandom Day of Asian Food

A couple of weeks ago I attended my friend C's "Random Day of Asian Food". The invite had read as follows:

'CC and I were thinking it's been far too long since we've had a big bunch of people over at our house to do something random, so this Saturday we're planning a dumpling + other random asian food making day. We're thinking people could turn up at around 4pm and between us we can see if we can make dumplings from scratch without poisoning ourselves. Other random asian foods that may well be on the menu include sushi - depending on whether we can find fresh things to put in it, or perhaps wontons if we decide that making dumpling skins from scratch is just too hard. Any other suggestions for random asian foods that can be made by large groups of people would be most welcome.

Adding to the excitement of the event is the fact that we have little to no idea how to make dumplings or any other random asian foods.'


Random Day of Asian Food

I love dumplings but had never made them from scratch before. Excitement! I arrived a little late to find the filling already made and the kitchen a hive of activity. C had never made dumplings from scratch before but his wife CC clearly knew what she was doing, as she expertly rolled balls of dough into thin discs.

Random Day of Asian FoodRandom Day of Asian Food

The dumpling filling had cabbage, ginger, onions, pork mince, beef mince, ji cai, vegetable oil, salt, pepper and soy sauce. CC didn't know the English word for ji cai (which came to us directly from her Chinese mother's garden), but my research has turned up a bewildering variety of names for Hottuynia Cordata: lizard's tail, shepherd's purse, fish plant, fishwort, heart leaf and chameleon plant. It's a wild spring green, often considered a weed, used in some Shanghainese dishes and in Chinese medicine. It gave the dumplings a pleasant, slightly floral taste.

Random Day of Asian Food

My first self-made dumpling! I quickly found out that the trick is to not put in too much filling.

Random Day of Asian FoodRandom Day of Asian Food

When we'd made all the dumplings we still had heaps of filling left, so CC brought out some pre-made wonton skins.

Random Day of Asian FoodRandom Day of Asian Food

She showed me how to wrap them, Chinese-style (as I learned from this site, there are at least eight different ways to wrap them).
Step one: place the filling in the middle, then run a wet finger along the far edge of the skin to coat it in water.
Step two: fold the skin in half, so the wet edge sticks to the dry edge.
Step three: fold the skin in half again to make a long thin strip (ideally you'll have put a small enough quantity of meat in the middle so that the skin refolds relatively easily).
Step four: wet the ends of the folded skin then bring the ends back round to the middle so that they kiss and stick together.

Random Day of Asian FoodRandom Day of Asian Food
Random Day of Asian FoodRandom Day of Asian Food

When the big group of us had finished preparing the dumplings and wontons, CC was in charge of boiling them up, in a manner very similar to the way my Nonna cooks gnocchi.

Random Day of Asian Food

Of course I couldn't resist adding a bit of soy sauce, Chinkinang vinegar and chilli oil to my soup, the way I have my chilli oil dumplings at Camy's...

Random Day of Asian Food

Some of the dumplings were steamed, some were boiled in soup and some were pan-fried. Not bad at all for a first effort.

Random Day of Asian FoodRandom Day of Asian Food

Later on we made some sushi (not pictured, alas) and some prawn crackers.

Loved the one that came out in the shape of a butterfly!

Cooking prawn crackersPrawn crackers

Wednesday, 3 June 2009

Seven Seeds, Melbourne's newest coffee cafe

Seven Seeds
114 Berkeley Street, Carlton (map)
9347 8664


Seven Seeds

Today was a non-working day for me, so this morning I met the charming A for breakfast at Seven Seeds (the latest venture of Mark "Brother Baba Budan" Dundon), which opened yesterday.

Seven Seeds

As with several of Melbourne's other coffee houses, Seven Seeds favours a light-industrial, distressed-brick, exposed-beams workshop aesthetic which I love - particularly the shiny shiny floor, wall-mounted bike racks and the teacosy-like coverings on the lamps.

Seven Seeds

The cafe part of the space abuts the central lab and atrium, which is filled with potted coffee plants.

Seven SeedsSeven Seeds

Spotted a spectrometer (or is it a spectrograph? It's been ten years since I studied wine making) and other coffee geek gadgets in the lab. The actual roastery is in the back room.

Seven SeedsSeven Seeds

I was a wimp and ordered a latte, but A had a clover coffee, using beans from Panama.

Seven Seeds coffees

The menu is very simple at Seven Seeds: pastries, toast, muesli and hot pressed sandwiches. Love the way the kitchen is partitioned off from the rest of the space.

Seven SeedsSeven Seeds

For breakfast, we decided to share something sweet and something savoury. A selected the French toasted brioche with pear, ricotta, roasted almonds and "honest" maple ($11). Nice and eggy, but there was so much soft ricotta, we couldn't finish it.

French toasted brioche with pear, ricotta, roasted almonds and honest maple

I chose the hot pressed sandwich with pecorino, dukkah, sage and lemon zest, with a side of shaved cucumber and carrot in vinaigrette ($9) - an admittedly bold choice for before 9am. Massively thick slices of multi-grain Dench bread meant that we couldn't finish this one either. Good flavours though.

Hot pressed sandwich with pecorino, dukkah, sage and lemon zest

Located only a stone's throw from Melbourne Law School, Seven Seeds will no doubt become the new favourite coffee house of law students and academics alike - especially if the muwireless signal reaches that far... :)

Seven Seeds

The Gingerboy dessert platter

Gingerboy
27-29 Crossley Street, Melbourne (map)
9662 4200


Gingerboy

A few Fridays ago I went with some friends to Gingerboy, to celebrate the lovely Miss T's birthday. She had not been there before, so I wanted to make sure she tried all of my favourite dishes from my favourite chef: the son-in-law eggs, the chilli salt cuttlefish, the red duck leg curry and the side of smoky wok greens (all of which I have written about before). Happily, our waitress was able to accommodate all of these dishes plus more in the $65 a head banquet option. There were a couple of other dishes that I hadn't had before but really enjoyed, including the grilled wagyu in la-lot leaves with sour chilli vinegar, and the lime and galangal basted baby chicken with peanut tamarind caramel (and studded with cubes of dragonfruit, yum).

But what I really want to write about today is the dessert platter.

Gingerboy dessert platter

We got it to share between the four of us as part of the banquet, though you can get it on the a la carte menu for $34.50. Loved the Thai spin on each little dish!

Below, on the left, is the chilli orange sugared banana fritters, with mint and Baileys ice cream. The chilli and orange really sexed up the fritters, the mint and ice cream cooled them down. And on the right is the chilled dark chocolate pudding, with rice crusted apple and chilli raspberry. You can't really see it in the photo, hidden behind the ice cream as it is, but the rice crust on the apple gave it a great texture.

Gingerboy dessert platter

But here are the ones I got really excited about. On the left is the spiced pear and tapioca dumpling in syrup, with young coconut soup. The dumpling had a texture just like a prawn dumpling, but the taste of spiced pear and tapioca... it completely did my head in. I loved it. The young coconut "soup" was more of a sorbet, but a completely crazy sorbet with a slick smooth texture devoid of water crystals. I'm not sure I can describe it properly, but the texture was unlike anything I'd ever had before. I went to the bustling kitchen to ask the dessert chef how he did it - he said it was all about keeping the coconut cream in balance with the sugar syrup. It's still a bit of a conundrum to me - must go back there on a quiet afternoon and get the proper inside scoop.

Next to that is the tofu cheesecake with champagne ginger jelly and poached rhubarb, which I was less enthusiastic about. But boy oh boy did I love the little barrel of tom kha custard with palm sugar syrup, topped with a sliver of dried candied pineapple. Tom kha ingredients (coconut, kaffir lime, galangal, lemongrass)... but in custard form. SO delicious.

Gingerboy dessert platter

I was initially sorry to see that, after having had the same (or very similar) cocktail menu for ages, Gingerboy had completely revamped its cocktail menu. Gone are the days of ordering a Gingergirl or a Glasgow Kiss. I am however happy to report that the Take The High Road (Johnny Walker Black, Pedro Ximenez, Frangelico, lemon and black cherry jam) was excellent and very moreish.

take the high road at GingerboyGingerboy

Afterwards, we walked up the rickety stairs to the red floor of New Gold Mountain for more cocktails. The guy running the floor gave us fantastic service, and I'm really glad he talked me out of an Aperol Sour and into the Gingerbread Man - it was deeeelicious!

New Gold Mountain

Monday, 1 June 2009

A Sunday pause at Sosta Cucina

Sosta Cucina
12 Errol Street, North Melbourne (map)
9329 2882


Sosta Cucina

Last weekend it was Nonno's 88th birthday. The Italian half of my family wanted to take him and Nonna out for lunch on the Sunday to celebrate the birthday (and to celebrate the return of my Mum and Dad from their month swanning around Italy), but it was tricky choosing a venue that my grandparents would approve of. It needed to be somewhere that was open for lunch on Sunday, that was special but wasn't too outrageously expensive and that served authentic Italian food... preferably Northern Italian. We learnt our lesson well when, years ago, we made the mistake of taking my Italian grandparents to a (very very nice) Chinese restaurant: Nonno kept scowling and grumbling that the Shanghai noodles hadn't been cooked al dente.

Sosta fit our birthday requirements nicely. Located at the city end of Errol Street, Sosta Cucina specialises in Northern Italian food (with Southern touches, as appropriate). I loved the aesthetics of the place: the prominent Venetian blinds and the old family photos on the white walls. The owner Maurizio looked after our table and gave us fantastic service, speaking politely in Italian to Nonna and Nonno.

Sosta Cucina

I arrived late to find a few antipasti already on the table: Ligurian and Puglian olives under oil, parmigiano Reggiano and - *DROOL* - marinated and pickled Sicilian anchovies. My mouth waters just thinking about those acciughe. Oh, and I can usually take or leave grissini, but I loved these house-made, pepper-flecked beauties. $17 for the plate.

Olive sott'olio, e reggiano, e acciughe

For primi piatti, Mamma had a couple of fiori di zucca ($7 each). The zucchini flowers were filled with ricotta and gorgonzola then lightly fried and served with an heirloom tomato salad. Zia P ordered the Pizzoccheri ($17): baked buckwheat pasta layered with taleggio, savoy cabbage and nicola potato drizzled with a burnt sage butter. It arrived in its own little ramekin and was, by all accounts, thoroughly delicious.

Fiori di zuccaPizzoccheri

My sister Birdie had the risotto special (which featured sausage and fagioli that came directly from Maurizio's mother-in-law's garden) and Zia P's partner M had the fresh pappardelle with a ragu of lamb and pecorino ($19).

Risotto ai fagioli e salsiccePappardelle al ragu di agnello e pecorino

I'll admit to feeling a twinge of dish envy as I looked at the other primi piatti, but then mine came out: the spaghetti al granchio e bottarga di muggine ($20). That's blue swimmer crab meat with EVOO, garlic, parsley, golden breadcrumbs and freshly grated bottarga (grey mullet roe). I'd loved bottarga when I'd had it at Anada and I'm a sucker for blue swimmer crab, so this was the clear choice. Loved the rich flavours and the slightly soggy texture of the breadcrumbs.

Spaghetti al granchio e bottarga di muggine

Nonno, acting uncharacteristically goofy in a manner that belies his 88 years.

Mangia Micio, mangia mangia!

Nonno's main was the fish special: hapuka, on a bed of agrodolce caponata. Caponata is a Sicilian salad made of fried eggplant, celery, capers, pine nuts and soaked raisins, in a mouthwatering sweet/sour sauce. Nonno adored it and kept passing heaped forkfuls to Nonna, insisting that she taste it in order to replicate it at home in the future. :)

Hapuka alla caponata agrodolce

Birdie surprised me by ordering a dish with lentils in it: the roasted quail and Italian sausage with bayleaf served upon braised lentils and mustard fruits ($29). Loved the presentation of this dish. Mum and Dad both ordered the roast of the day, which was a veal pot roast served with peas and pancetta.

Quaglie al forno con lenticchieRoast veal

Nonna and I both went with soft polenta dishes, good Northern Italians that we are. I had the Capretto alla moda di abbacchio con taragna ($28): baby goat, slow cooked with rosemary and white wine (in the style more commonly used for slow cooked lamb), served on soft taragna polenta with shavings of pecorino. Made from ground corn flour and buckwheat, taragna polenta has a slightly nutty flavour that went perfectly with the tender meat. Must get my hands on some taragna polenta to cook at home.

We all shared a couple of bowls of excellent rocket salad, with shaved fennel, pear and a sherry vinaigrette ($8).

Capretto alla moda di abbacchio con targana

Nonna ordered another of the specials, the duck liver with wet polenta and caramelised radicchio. At the risk of being pelted with stale bread rolls by my fellow food bloggers for not being sufficiently "hardcore", I must confess to having a limited liking for offal: the metallic taste of cooked liver tends to be something I endure rather than enjoy. But in tasting Nonna's dish I was blown away by the caramelised radicchio - the combination of sweet and bitter flavours was intoxicating. I bought some radicchio at the market on the weekend just so that I could attempt to caramelise it at home - wish me luck!

Fegato con polenta e radicchio caramelisato

Our food was accompanied by some lovely Italian wines: first a sparkling, then an Arneis, then a Nebbiolo. I am ALL about the Arneis at the moment.

Compleanno di Nonno

Mum and Dad held up remarkably well, considering they'd only flown back from Italy that morning. We looked at a couple of digicam photos from their fabulous holiday which included visiting my brother Buster in Firenze (I was lucky enough to be brought back a gorgeous pair of bottle green gloves made from soft soft Florentine leather). When visiting our Italian relatives in Monfalcone, Mum had gone through all of their old photos and brought back a selection that they had given her.

MammaZio Mario

That's Mamma when she was a little girl (looking very much like me as a little girl). And hey, how totally hot was my zio Mario in the late 1940s, eh? Phwoar. The man is rocking the cardigan-and-Vespa look.

Zio Mario

We skipped dessert in favour of strong, strong espressi.

Caffe

And to finish off, Maurizio brought a couple of bottles so we could have an impromptu grappa tasting. They all tasted great!

Grappa